“We really should value textiles more as durable products, only then the system will become more sustainable,” says Paulien Harmsen. She is a senior scientist and technical lead for the Sustainable Textiles Programme at Wageningen University and Research in the Netherlands, working on circular and sustainable textiles and fashion fossil-free textiles, textile recycling and bio-based fibres.
Why is textile waste an issue for the environment and climate?
Paulien Harmsen: It is caused by overproduction and overconsumption of textiles, which creates a lot of waste that we cannot handle now. Recycling seems like a good measure for the waste problem, but it is only a small part of the solution, as it is not for free, requires a lot of energy and is technically complex and difficult.
Then the level of green washing is large: people look to the textile industry to change, but it is not that straightforward. There is much green-washing on sustainability, and for the consumer it is a real challenge to understand these claims.
How have recent changes in retailer and consumer behaviours contributed to this problem? For example, it is estimated that there is 12kg of textile waste per EU citizen per year.
Paulien Harmsen: Yes, this has contributed. Some textiles have become disposable products instead of durable ones. This is strange, when you realise how much effort it takes [to produce clothes]: from the raw materials, to the fibres, to the yarns, fabric, to the piece of clothing. And it is not just clothing, but also about home textiles.
There are many steps required to make these textile products. It is ridiculous that we use them only a few times and then throw them away. They are also so cheap because we use cheap materials, like synthetics, and use cheap labour. We really should value textiles more as durable products, only then this will change.
There are nine strategies for circularity, which starts with “refuse” at level zero [The principles of a circular economy are: 0. Refuse, 1. Rethink, 2. Reduce, 3. Reuse, 4. Repair, 5. Refurbish, 6. Re-manufacture, 7. Repurpose, 8. Recycle, 9. Recover]. So to really change the system, consumers need to refuse products at the beginning. Then, you can work on the other strategies to tackle the problem.
When it remains possible to buy very cheap clothing from all over the world, it is very difficult to solve this waste problem.
What can be done to promote greater circularity and sustainability in the textile industry?
Paulien Harmsen: We know quite a lot about consumer behaviour in relation to food, but in relation to textiles this is relatively new. You can also see that this topic is not really on the agenda of the industry, but I feel that part of the solution is that consumers need to be more aware of the problem.
People buy stuff because it looks nice, it feels good and it is cheap and affordable, but I think that at least a first look at the label would also help to create awareness. Consumer behaviour is part of the solution and we see it is changing slowly in the right direction.
In the Netherlands, collection facilities to bring old clothes for reuse and recycling are full. When there is no storage space, the textiles will be burned. Textile waste is a huge problem and people should be encouraged to buy things for longevity, stuff of good quality.
You cannot buy something that’s really cheap and then expect that it will also have a second life and can be recycled in the end; this is only possible with good quality products, and that’s what the industry should make. I also believe that in a sustainable system, clothing is more expensive than it is now.
The textile industry showcases lots of creativity, so what kind of innovative solutions could it use?
Paulien Harmsen: It is an industry that is very creative and has impressive techniques, so they can design and produce for circularity and sustainability. They also need sustainable business models, so they can still earn money with more sustainable options.
For example, natural fibres like, hemp and linen are beautiful materials, also in terms of comfort. These natural fibres can be produced in Europe because our climate is suitable. I really hope that the industry will take up more of these materials and make fashionable things that people like to wear.
What is your outlook for the future of sustainability in the textile industry?
Paulien Harmsen: In some ways, cheap Chinese internet companies like Temu and Shein are disruptive and slow down sustainable developments. On the other hand, I see within the European Union and new legislation that things are going slowly in the right direction, although it will take some years for implementation.
Textiles are also about beauty and how to express yourself, and it is interesting to see how consumers relate to textiles. You also see that research on the topic has grown in interest.
On the other hand, there are so many other topics that need attention such as microfibres, microplastics, the chemicals used to dye and finish. The topic is huge and diverse, and there’s lots of work to do, but I really feel we started something.
If you compare food to textiles, we are so much further in terms of traceability and product information. When you buy a food product, you can read about all the ingredients in the product. But when you buy a piece of clothing, the information is really limited. The value chain of textiles is more complex, and traceability is challenging but necessary.
We need food, but we also need textiles to cover ourselves, they’re both so important. People don’t worry so much about textiles because we just import them from outside of Europe, and we don’t worry about where it’s made, how it’s made, where it comes from, that lots of fossil fuel resources are used to make it. This surprises me and a bit more awareness would certainly help.